Some of this page is a duplicate of info found on the other pages, however I have been asked to make a page showing my various Railway Items on one page.
TRACK
My Railroad layout is simply a table I built with OSB board on top of it, I used Lionel 042 O gauge track as it is the least expensive, the layout has now been painted green and has side guards around it to keep errant Locomotives from crashing to the floor, but this gives you a basic idea as to what I have.
Please excuse the messy garage. The inner loop of track now has 42" diameter track and the outer loop is 72" diameter. Standard 30" curves are too sharp for the Bowman to handle so I decided to go with wider curves.
LOCOMOTIVES
My Mamod Locomotives
Mamod SL3
The New Mamod Train
I believe this is the first one to be brought to the US. It is Gas Fired and is an excellent runner
Bowman 234
This Locomotive was manufactured somewhere around the mid 1920s
Bowman 300.
This one is from the mid to late 1920s
Bowman 234 &300 together
DeWinton Idris
roughly modeled after a quarry Locomtive from England from the late 1890s
This model was hand built in the 21st Century, and is Gas fired
TRACK
My Railroad layout is simply a table I built with OSB board on top of it, I used Lionel 042 O gauge track as it is the least expensive, the layout has now been painted green and has side guards around it to keep errant Locomotives from crashing to the floor, but this gives you a basic idea as to what I have.
Please excuse the messy garage. The inner loop of track now has 42" diameter track and the outer loop is 72" diameter. Standard 30" curves are too sharp for the Bowman to handle so I decided to go with wider curves.
LOCOMOTIVES
My Mamod Locomotives
Mamod SL3
The New Mamod Train
I believe this is the first one to be brought to the US. It is Gas Fired and is an excellent runner
Bowman 234
This Locomotive was manufactured somewhere around the mid 1920s
Bowman 300.
This one is from the mid to late 1920s
Bowman 234 &300 together
DeWinton Idris
roughly modeled after a quarry Locomtive from England from the late 1890s
This model was hand built in the 21st Century, and is Gas fired
ROLLING STOCK
Mamod Railway Vans ( Cars )
IP Engineering Two Compartment Coach
This is an IP Engineering 2 compartment Coach. This arrived in kit form and I built it using a magnifying glass as at the time I was visually challenged. I do hope to build another soon.
Here it is with my Mamod SL3, I think they go together nicely.
Mamod Railway Vans ( Cars )
IP Engineering Two Compartment Coach
This is an IP Engineering 2 compartment Coach. This arrived in kit form and I built it using a magnifying glass as at the time I was visually challenged. I do hope to build another soon.
Here it is with my Mamod SL3, I think they go together nicely.
MAMOD SL3 Loco Tune Up
, should work for other MAMOD Locos too
No, I am not an expert on this, but since I have been doing all of this recently and found that each step has made a significant difference in the operation and performance of my SL3 Loco, I thought that I should share what and how I have done.
First off, for American Mamod Railway Enthusiasts, track is an important item. For 32mm Locos, O Gauge for us Yanks, Lionel track is abundant. IT can be found inexpensively on Ebay or at Yard Sales. However, there are two basic varieties of Lionel track, O27 which was for tintype toys, and Standard O Gauge track. The height of the rail is different and makes a big difference, go for the Standard and avoid the O27 if you can as I have found O27 to be problematic for several Cars and some Locomotives.
Note the difference, O27 is on the Left
Now, before the Loco can perform pn the track, it has to operate without leaking Steam and Priming like mad. There are two things that need to be addressed, the Cylinder/Port Face surfaces and the Reverser Block surfaces. Both are areas where Metal to Metal contact is made and a seal has to exist. If those surfaces are not perfectly smooth, they will leak.
Notice that the Cylinders are held on with four screws, the two front screws are threaded into the Reverser Block and the rear two are threaded into Nuts. You need to remove all four, but take care to hold the nuts as the screws are removed, I used Needle Nosed Pliers, but I suppose a spanner wrench could be found that would fit into the tight space inside the Loco Frame
The Cylinder removed, note the Gasket on the frame, the idea is not to damage it.
Remove the trunion screw and the cylinder comes apart from the Port Face
Now for the Lapping/Polishing step. I use a piece of 1/2" Plate Glass that is perfectly flat, it is imperative that whatever you use be PERFECTLY FLAT, wood will not do, maybe a piece of machined metal might do. I lay a piece of Wet and Dry Sandpaper on it, I first use 600 grit, then 1200 grit then finish off with 2000 grit ( sandpaper this fine is sold at Auto Body Suppliers ) I then use a Sharpie Pen and blacken the surface to be lapped, this way I can see the progress I am making, I do the Sharpie trick for each grade of sandpaper and often I redo the Sharpie while still in the same grade of paper. You can see the progess you make this way.
Then while holding the sandpaper perfectly flat on the glass I move the item to be polished on it FLAT in a CIRCLE or FIGURE EIGHT pattern, do not just go back and forth like you are sanding a piece of wood.
This is repeated for both Cylinders and Port Faces. When done they will have a mirror finish.
Next is the Reverser Block, the screws holding it in place are already removed as you have not replaced the cylinders yet.
Here it is before the second cylinder has been removed ( I did not remove the second cylinder as the surfaces were already polished on this engine so why take it further apart than needed )
You also need to remove the trunion screw for it also and once removed the Reverse block both comes apart and is easily removed from the Loco Frame. Behind the Reverse Block is a round piece of metal that retains the O Rings that seal the Steam Line and the Exhaust Line. The trunion screw presses the circular piece of metal against the Reverser Block and compresses the O Rings, sealing the Steam Line and Exhaust.
I then repeat the Lapping and Sharpie process on the parts of the Reverser block
Reassemble the Reverser Block and the Cylinders to the Loco and then proceed to do a test run, you will notice a considerable improvement over the leaky Loco you had before. Note that I use one hand to hold the sandpaper flat on the glass and the other hand to handle the parts to be lapped, When taking these pictures I did not have use of both hands as one hand was holding the camera.
I also have found that the three wick burner as sold by Model Enthusiasts, Dream Steam or Forrest Classics is essential.
, should work for other MAMOD Locos too
No, I am not an expert on this, but since I have been doing all of this recently and found that each step has made a significant difference in the operation and performance of my SL3 Loco, I thought that I should share what and how I have done.
First off, for American Mamod Railway Enthusiasts, track is an important item. For 32mm Locos, O Gauge for us Yanks, Lionel track is abundant. IT can be found inexpensively on Ebay or at Yard Sales. However, there are two basic varieties of Lionel track, O27 which was for tintype toys, and Standard O Gauge track. The height of the rail is different and makes a big difference, go for the Standard and avoid the O27 if you can as I have found O27 to be problematic for several Cars and some Locomotives.
Note the difference, O27 is on the Left
Now, before the Loco can perform pn the track, it has to operate without leaking Steam and Priming like mad. There are two things that need to be addressed, the Cylinder/Port Face surfaces and the Reverser Block surfaces. Both are areas where Metal to Metal contact is made and a seal has to exist. If those surfaces are not perfectly smooth, they will leak.
Notice that the Cylinders are held on with four screws, the two front screws are threaded into the Reverser Block and the rear two are threaded into Nuts. You need to remove all four, but take care to hold the nuts as the screws are removed, I used Needle Nosed Pliers, but I suppose a spanner wrench could be found that would fit into the tight space inside the Loco Frame
The Cylinder removed, note the Gasket on the frame, the idea is not to damage it.
Remove the trunion screw and the cylinder comes apart from the Port Face
Now for the Lapping/Polishing step. I use a piece of 1/2" Plate Glass that is perfectly flat, it is imperative that whatever you use be PERFECTLY FLAT, wood will not do, maybe a piece of machined metal might do. I lay a piece of Wet and Dry Sandpaper on it, I first use 600 grit, then 1200 grit then finish off with 2000 grit ( sandpaper this fine is sold at Auto Body Suppliers ) I then use a Sharpie Pen and blacken the surface to be lapped, this way I can see the progress I am making, I do the Sharpie trick for each grade of sandpaper and often I redo the Sharpie while still in the same grade of paper. You can see the progess you make this way.
Then while holding the sandpaper perfectly flat on the glass I move the item to be polished on it FLAT in a CIRCLE or FIGURE EIGHT pattern, do not just go back and forth like you are sanding a piece of wood.
This is repeated for both Cylinders and Port Faces. When done they will have a mirror finish.
Next is the Reverser Block, the screws holding it in place are already removed as you have not replaced the cylinders yet.
Here it is before the second cylinder has been removed ( I did not remove the second cylinder as the surfaces were already polished on this engine so why take it further apart than needed )
You also need to remove the trunion screw for it also and once removed the Reverse block both comes apart and is easily removed from the Loco Frame. Behind the Reverse Block is a round piece of metal that retains the O Rings that seal the Steam Line and the Exhaust Line. The trunion screw presses the circular piece of metal against the Reverser Block and compresses the O Rings, sealing the Steam Line and Exhaust.
I then repeat the Lapping and Sharpie process on the parts of the Reverser block
Reassemble the Reverser Block and the Cylinders to the Loco and then proceed to do a test run, you will notice a considerable improvement over the leaky Loco you had before. Note that I use one hand to hold the sandpaper flat on the glass and the other hand to handle the parts to be lapped, When taking these pictures I did not have use of both hands as one hand was holding the camera.
I also have found that the three wick burner as sold by Model Enthusiasts, Dream Steam or Forrest Classics is essential.